Situated at the crossroads of significant geographical zones and trade routes, Esztergom Castle Hill was a vital political and cultural center in medieval Hungary. The royal and later archiepiscopal seat, prominent since the time of St. Stephen, endured severe damage during the Ottoman wars, and much of the complex was permanently destroyed by 19th-century construction projects. Today, its memory survives in early modern engravings and depictions—often imprecise—as well as in engineering surveys conducted after the Ottomans were expelled.
Archaeological, historical, and art historical research, initiated in the 1930s, has significantly advanced our understanding of the hill’s main buildings, though much remains to be explored. In the summer of 2013, the Department of Archaeology at Pázmány Péter Catholic University began excavations in Esztergom in collaboration with the Esztergom Castle Museum of the Hungarian National Museum and the Bálint Balassa Museum. These efforts are supported by the Iohanneum building, which serves as the archaeological base for the university's Institute of Archaeology in Esztergom.
Starting in the summer of 2014, we began welcoming colleagues and students from international partner institutions, including those in Britain, Germany, France, Poland, Bulgaria, Croatia, Bosnia, Russia, Armenia, Lebanon, Jordan, Syria, Iraq, and Egypt.
Following decades of field research led by Dr. István Horváth, the director of the museum, current excavations focus on the western slope of Esztergom Castle Hill.
On the rocky outcrop at the northern part of the hill, significant remains of a church—likely dedicated to St. Vid—have been uncovered. The findings reveal an Árpád-era church featuring two bays and a straight-vaulted sanctuary, within which two altar foundations were discovered. Remarkably, parts of the building’s walls, which stand nearly six meters high in some places, indicate that it was once covered by a flat dome roof. In the 14th century, these walls were adorned with exquisite Trecento-style murals created by the same workshop responsible for decorating the Archbishop's Chapel, a component of the former royal palace.
Under the guidance of skilled restorers, the careful recovery and documentation of these fallen murals provide an exceptional learning opportunity for students passionate about restoration. This hands-on experience allows them to hone their skills while working with these delicate, centuries-old artworks.
Given its location and the grandeur of its remains, it is highly plausible that this building is the same St. Vid’s "basilica" mentioned in a 1284 charter. The description in the document—“in ... promontorio castri Strigoniensis”—aligns perfectly with the position of the discovered structure on the cliff ledge.
The discovery of this significant site, perched on an escarpment overlooking the Danube and beyond the known boundaries of the castle walls, highlights how much remains to be uncovered at Esztergom Castle Hill. These ongoing excavations promise to yield valuable material for future theses and scientific studies, ensuring that Esztergom continues to inspire researchers for years to come.
In the summer of 2014, we began excavating the so-called medieval quarries discovered by Dr. István Horváth at the southern end of Castle Hill, on the rocky ridge below the royal palace buildings. For centuries, these quarried cavities served as dumping grounds for waste from the medieval kitchens constructed above them. The multi-meter-thick layers of refuse have yielded an exceptionally rich collection of artifacts. Through meticulous archaeological excavation, sieving, and flotation, these findings offer a detailed glimpse into life at the castle, including its culinary practices and broader material culture.
Meanwhile, at the base of the western slope of Castle Hill, the excavation site of the so-called Ottoman dwellings provides a broad spectrum of insights. Spanning periods from the Celtic era to the Early Modern age, this area offers an invaluable training ground for students, showcasing the layered history of the castle complex.
Since 2016, the Institute of Archaeology in Esztergom has actively participated in the Vestigia research group at PPCU, led by Dr. György Domokos. This collaboration focuses on documents from the late medieval Esztergom archbishop’s court, preserved in Italian archives. As a result, several previously unknown drawings and wall paintings depicting Esztergom during the Turkish period have come to light.
We extend our heartfelt gratitude to all colleagues, students, volunteers, and supporters for their enthusiasm and perseverance, which continue to drive our work forward!
Dr. Balázs Major
Head of Programme
PPKE BTK Institute of Archaeology
Photo reports of each season of the research programmes are available on our Facebook page.
Experience
“It’s never easy to navigate cobblestone streets with a massive suitcase or a packed sports bag, especially after hours on a bus or train. Even if you’re wearing comfortable shoes, fatigue sneaks up on you. Add darkness to the mix, and the journey becomes even trickier—like when you pause to admire an old building, only to find a bloodthirsty spider creeping up on you, as stealthy as a grumpy caretaker or gatekeeper disturbed mid-puzzle.
Despite the challenges, we managed to reach our accommodation in Esztergom: the St. Adalbert Centre. Our team, working on the excavation of the St. Vid Chapel, was assigned a second-floor room. The location was excellent—none of us could recall having stayed somewhere with an elevator to our room—and the view of the Danube at dusk was breathtaking.
At the Cat Stairs, warning signs—No Trespassing—are still visible. For reasons beyond understanding, some tourists seem to mistake them for movie props and blithely ignore them. Behind those signs, our small team worked, watched by vigilant eyes from the castle walls. Dusty, grinning, and carrying shovels, we trudged back each day, eagerly discussing the latest finds.
Our days on Castle Hill were long but productive, filled with laughter and camaraderie. The discoveries were a delightful mix: women’s stockings, Celtic pottery, Turkish ceramics, and even a Barbie doll’s sparkling crown somehow nestled side by side. My personal favorite was a pair of binoculars “made for elves.” When you looked through them, one lens revealed a miniature, dusty image of the Basilica, while the other lens showed whatever the viewer wished to see.
When we unearthed the first fragments of frescoes in the chapel sanctuary, the pace of work slowed. The delicate fragments needed careful extraction. These new pieces complemented a fresco discovered during a previous excavation. Unfortunately, the colors of the older fresco had faded over time after being reburied, but together, the pieces painted a more promising picture of the chapel’s original grandeur.
Some of us also had the privilege of joining the restoration workshop, learning hands-on skills from the experts while working on metal finds from previous excavations. Beyond the digs, our days were packed with memorable activities: we listened to a breathtaking musical performance by Tamás Kobzos Kiss in the mosque, toured the castle with archaeologist István Horváth, and visited the palace chapel with its stunning frescoes currently undergoing restoration.
It was a truly enriching experience. At first, you might think summer internships are all about work and learning, but they often surprise you with something more profound: the people you share the journey with. Living with team members in close quarters—even the same room—brings unexpected depth. You wake up to each other’s quirky alarm clocks, share meals while swapping stories, and form bonds that transform into genuine camaraderie. It’s team-building in its purest form.
Our two weeks in Esztergom were unforgettable. Great accommodation, a lively and supportive team, and breathtaking views of the Danube all came together to create a cherished memory. I wouldn’t trade the experience for anything.”
Anna Nagy
2nd year
Major in Medieval Europe
Medieval Middle East minor
